Sewing Scientist: July 2020

Rad Patterns Ororo Bralette

It's me again with another bra. Next month is BrAugust and I'll be posting several more that I haven't had time to blog about or finesse my fit. This week I'm sharing the Rad Patterns Ororo Bralette.

Below you will see the first one that I made. As I began construction, I realized the pattern had 0.5" seam allowances, and I was using a serger. These two things do not go together well. I tried to cut off the excess as I serged, but failed. You can see that there's extra fabric below my bust.

You can also see that where the straps attach is way too wide.

I took my pattern pieces and shaved 0.25" from the pattern pieces to make them more serger friendly with 0.25" seam allowances.

The fit is so much better!

You can't really see it, but I used the prettiest rose gold ring and slides. Those and my bra strapping came from The Bra Makery.

As always, I used YSS from Zenith & Quasar. I also omitted the elastic bottom band and used a band of Tactel knit cut just a tiny bit smaller than the bottom of my finished bralette.

When I made the first one at the beginning of my blog post, I used YSS to line the Ororo Bralette. I have found (after making a dozen different bralettes) that 2 layers of YSS with a seamed cup and be a bit thick and make the seam show. That is no bueno for wearing under regular clothing. For This Ororo Bralette I used some Neon Yellow Mesh from Zenith & Quasar. This worked out so much better.

Stay tuned for more of my bra making adventures. Unless it offends you - then wait until September to come see what I'm up to then.

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Ellie & Mac Color Block Swim Suit

It's Wacky Wednesday - which lasts all week at Ellie & Mac! This is the Colorblock Zip Swimsuit Mix & Match. I went with a simple version of this pattern without any color blocking.

I can always use more solid colored swim bottoms because I have a tendency to make a lot of printed swim tops. I love this peacock color swim I got from Made Whimsy a few years ago. I no longer see it in stock.

I used Watercolor Pond YSS from Zenith & Quasar for the top. I lined it with the peacock swim and added in bra cups to the lining.

The pattern calls to finish all edges with elastic, to fold in inside and to topstitch it to enclose it. On the top, I finished my seams using a highlighter pink picot elastic from the BraMakery and love the little added feminine touch. I also added bra band elastic to the waistband of my bottoms that was 5/8" wide and had a picot edge with a plush edge against my skin.

I pass the neighborhood swimming pool on my walk to the garden every day. I'm thinking I might wear this with a pair of shorts sometime and take a backpack with me to hold my towel and any veggies that I end up picking. That way I can stop and have a quick cool down before I walk on home.

Be sure to check out all the great patterns on sale for only one dollar each this week.

Rad Patterns Lucky Lingerie Bralette

As I make my way through the dozens of bra and bralette patterns that I own, I went to one that I have owned the longest. The Rad Patterns Lucky Lingerie Bralette. I bought this patterns eons ago on Etsy of all places. Rad now has a fancy website that is much better than buying on Etsy.

I went by my measurements and made this first one using two layers of Yoga Swim Spandex (YSS) from Zenith & Quasar.

Two layers of YSS is quite compressive and really smooshes the girls. But this will be worn as a sports bra, so it's all good.

I love the wide straps and how comfortable they are. I do have one confession - the pattern says to add interfacing to the straps of the lining pieces and I completely ignored it. With this fabric it was not needed. I used picot elastic to finish the bottom band on mine. I love the little added detail.

After I made the Lucky Lingerie Bralette above, I immediately cut out three more with a light weight athletic brushed poly from Zenith & Quasar and decided to make the babydoll version to wear as a tank top. I have a serious tan line going on and need to get more sun on my chest.

The first one I made was turquoise and I added cups and still omitted the interfacing from the lining straps. The cups helped keep my boobs shapely, but the straps really did need the interfacing on this lightweight knit. So these versions have the interfacing added and I added bra cups. I didn't bother taking photos of my turquoise failure. I still wear it though.

This one is exactly the same as the one above, but in purple and with a mistake. I think I got the underbust band backwards. As the gap between the cups is way wider than I had intended.

I'm not exactly sure what happened, but you definitely see more boob through the hole than the other versions.

The back looks normal - so I'm not sure if I miss measured the spacing or what. Either way, I wear this every week on a walk through my neighborhood.

I am sure to make more Lucky Lingerie Bralettes and babydoll (tank tops) in the future.

Ellie & Mac Free Curved Hem Pocket Tank and Wacky Wednesday Cut File

Due to the Coronavirus, Wacky Wednesday has become a week long event at Ellie & Mac and continues. This week, I am showing one of the cut files that is included in this weeks sale along with one of the FREE patterns from the website!

This cut file says "Seeds, Sunshine, and Sprouts". At the beginning of the Pandemic I planted a garden, and this cut file seemed perfect for me. Of course I needed the perfect top to put it on. Since it is Summer in Texas, I am pretty much living in sleeveless tops. I decided to give the free Curved Hem Pocket Tank a try. I made mine with a remnant of tie dye rayon spandex that I had and omitted the pocket.

I used a rose gold HTV from Heat Transfer Source and it is my favorite color of HTV to use on just about anything!

Since the back of the tank has a center back seam, getting the tank cut out on my small piece of fabric was a cinch. It also has a small bit of a built in sway back adjustment and I added just a tiny bit more when I sewed it together.

The cut file is on sale for one dollar and this tank pattern is free all the time. They are both perfect together.